Exploring the backstreets of Fushimi

The greenery at Chokenji temple includes a pair of large, untamed cherry trees.

Most people visit Fushimi to see the wonders of Fushimi Inari Shrine and the rebuilt castle but if you have time to wander, its backstreets are home to picturesque temples and canals plus some of Japan’s finest sake and beer breweries……

Fushimi originally gained fame for its soft, pure water, drawing sake brewers such as Jiemon Okura to the area. Much has changed since Okura founded Gekkeikan here in 1637 but it is still pleasant to spend a half-day strolling the remains of the canals he used to transport his wares to Kyoto and beyond, naturally with stops at Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum (月桂冠大倉記念館) and Kizakura brewery (キザクラカッパカントリー) for a taste of local culture.

The best starting point for your tour is Chushojima on the Keihan line. The station has a couple of useful maps but basically you want to head for the Gekkeikan museum via Chokenji temple (長建寺) and Teradaya inn (寺田屋), finishing up at Kizakura. Along the way, you’ll pass a tree-lined section of the old canal network, which offers seasonal boat tours and views of Gekkeikan’s traditional walls.

Chokenji is easy to spot thanks to its unusual red earthen gate. “Rustic” is probably the most generous way to describe this small, peaceful temple. Its weathered wooden buildings and stone paths are shaded by lush, unkempt greenery, including two large plum trees, and if you go during the week, you’ll likely have this oasis of calm all to your lonesome.

Main entrance to Chokenji

Main building at Chokenji

Boats for canal tours

The landing for boat cruises is directly opposite Chokenji. They’re sedate affairs to be sure but a pleasant way to see more of the canal. Or if you prefer to just stroll, go down the steps in front of Chokenji without crossing the bridge. The exterior views of Gekkeikan are better from this side.

It’s probably easiest to cross the next bridge and head back toward Gekkeikan via the road but the canal continues if you want to. After crossing the bridge, ahead on the left, you’ll find Teradaya inn, famous for a skirmish involving 19th century reformer and present day cult hero Sakamoto Ryoma.

This is where Ryoma and a friend fought off superior numbers of loyalist samurai before making a daring escape. The site of this fateful event in Japanese history has been carefully preserved down to the bullet holes and sword slashes in the woodwork and it plus a collection of Ryoma artifacts can be inspected for a small fee.

Exterior view of Gekkeikan brewery

Section of Fushimi's canal network

Once you’ve soaked up enough samurai spirit, it’s time to head to Gekkeikan for a different kind of tipple. You’ll go past Kizakura, but it’s probably best to make that the last stop on your circuit.

If you’re unfamiliar with sake making, Gekkeikan offers guided tours or you can browse the collection of brewing paraphernalia at your own speed. The premises are interesting enough, but the main draw here is definitely the chance to sample some of Gekkeikan’s fine product. With over 350 years of experience, these guys know their game. The only complaint: those plastic cup thimble things are way too small.

Main meal at Kizakura restaurant

Some very fine Kizakura sake on ice

The main reason, actually reasons, for visiting Kizakura last are the excellent outdoor drinking area, shaded by large cherry trees, and restaurant, serving several unique dishes. The restaurant is basically an izakaya, but its menu happens to include rich sake kasu-jiru soup and nabe hot pot, thickened with the lees from filtering sake, plus some excellent examples of Kizakura’s sakes and highly successful foray into beer brewing.

Before dining, media enthusiasts will also want to check the nostalgic displays of Kizakura promotional posters and television commercials from yesteryear, and a trip to the gift shop for take-home supplies is also recommended. When you’re done, head to Fushimi-Momoyama, rather than Chushojima, station for your trip home. If you need souvenirs, the shopping street leading to the station has a little bit of everything.

Details
Web: www.gekkeikan.co.jp/english/index.html (with map)
www.kizakura.co.jp/ja/c_top.cgi?id=1 (Japanese only)
Access:
Special needs: Although the Kizakura restaurant menu doesn’t include English, it has pictures you can use to order a reasonable meal.