Fishing for noodles in Kibune

Hirobun's dining platforms are cooled by the breeze from this impressive waterfall.

Noodle photomodel Natalie Emmons

Escape the heat of summer by spending an afternoon in Kibune, enjoying the breeze emanating from the cascading waterfalls and literally “grabbing” a bite to eat.

Tucked away in the northern mountains of Kyoto alongside a serene river is the tiny village of Kibune, a perfect retreat for those ready to enjoy a completely unique dining experience designed to deflect the summer heat. As any overly ambitious traveler will tell you, sightseeing in the Japanese summertime can be an aggravating affair. You head out the door with high hopes and an extensive itinerary only to find yourself hyperventilating in a crowded subway and more than willing to sacrifice your carefully planned schedule for a cold beer and some air conditioning. For this very reason, a peaceful train ride into the misty cedar forests of Kyoto’s northern mountains is the perfect antidote to an otherwise skin sizzling day in the city.

A bus traveling from Kibuneguchi Station, in the direction of Kibune Shrine, will bring you to a string of quaint, little restaurants and cafes, many of which offer kawadoko style seating. Kawadoko, which translates as river stage or floor, is a centuries-old practice in which temporary wooden platforms are built just slightly above the riverbed so that you can enjoy the pleasant bubbling sounds of the stream below while savoring an exquisite kaiseki course meal. The majority of platforms are built in front of waterfalls, giving diners a mesmerizing view and ensuring that each breeze is cooled by its proximity to the cascade.

There is one restaurant in particular, Hirobun (ひろ文), that advertises a much more affordable lunch of nagashi somen (flowing noodles) served in a surprisingly inventive manner. Somen, thin white noodles made from wheat flour, are generally served with a cold dipping sauce or hot soup. Nagashi somen, on the other hand, are a much more festive meal that involves tiny bundles of noodles being delivered to you through a bamboo half-pipe carrying a stream of ice-cold water.

Noodle delivery chute

Dipping sauce with wasabi

Kibune Shrine entrance

Restaurant guests are seated in pairs, with each pair being assigned a specific bamboo trough from which to eat. Roughly every 30 seconds, two separate lumps of noodles will come whizzing in your direction and you will have to snatch up the bundle with your chopsticks. The proper etiquette is for the person to the left to grab the first lump of noodles, and the person to the right the second lump, though missed noodles seem to be fair game. You then dip your captured noodles in the provided sauce and enjoy.

Even if you are a natural with chopsticks, the first lump of noodles can be tricky to catch, especially if you are trying simultaneously to take photographs, but gradually you will get the hang of it. The excitement generates giggles and shrieks of delight as diners attempt to catch the noodles before the stream carries them away. The focused concentration of those waiting for their portion with their chopsticks poised to strike and the shouts of triumph when the noodles are effectively snatched up creates an atmosphere reminiscent of a family gathered around a board game. The final bundle of noodles is dyed pink to signify that your session has come to an end and you must allow the next customers to take your seats.

If after lunch you feel sufficiently energetic, the beautiful Kibune Shrine with its stone steps lined with vibrant orange lanterns is just a few minutes from Hirobun. It is here that you can purchase the mysterious mizuura-mikuji, a seemingly blank piece of paper that reveals your fortune after being dipped in sacred water. With lungs full of fresh mountain air and the excitement of fishing for noodles, you will discover that you have enjoyed an entire summer afternoon without reaching for your sweat towel.

Author info: Natalie Emmons is a multi-talented writer, photographer, musician and performer. Based in San Diego, California, she frequently travels to Europe, Asia and other parts of the world for work and leisure. You can keep up to date with her latest projects via her Facebook pages: Travel and general info and music and performance info.

Other details
Web: Hirobun (Japanese only) and Kibune Jinja (Japanese only)
Access: Take the Keihan Line to Demachiyanagi Station and then change to the Eizan Railway. Take the Eizan as far as Kibuneguchi, the second to last stop. From Kibuneguchi, you can reach Hirobun in about 25 minutes on foot. Alternatively, take the bus from in front of the station for one stop to the start of the restaurant area. You will need to walk in the same direction for another five to 10 minutes to reach Hirobun, which is at the far end of the restaurant area.
Extra images and info: Kyoto after dark on Facebook (link only but must be logged into Fb.)
Please note that while Hirobun operates throughout the year, nagashi somen is only available from the start of May until the end of September. Each noodle session costs 1,200 yen.