The bamboo in Kibune Jinja's main area is decorated with strips of paper bearing Tanabata wishes.
Japanese festivals capture a wide variety of moods but Tanabata (七夕) is maybe the most magical, particularly the evening illuminations. The festival was originally introduced from China in around the 8th century but has since undergone various changes to become a uniquely Japanese celebration.
Also known as the Star Festival, Tanabata is based on the Chinese legend of the princess and the cowherd. In the Japanese version, celestial lovers Orihime and Hikoboshi (represented by the stars Vega and Altair) are separated by the Amanogawa (Milky Way), only able to meet once a year on the seventh day of the seventh month.
According to the ancient story, this sentence was imposed by Orihime’s father, Tentei (Sky King), when she began to neglect her filial duties soon after marrying Hikoboshi. At first, an angry Tentei completely separated the two lovers but his heart was softened by Orihime’s tears and he eventually allowed them to meet one day a year.
It’s all rather poignantly star-crossed and unrequited, and one of the main customs is for festival goers to write wishes on colorful strips of paper (tanzaku) and hang them on bamboo plants with other decorations. There are also various other regional customs and even the day of the festival varies due to the difference between the old lunar and modern calendars.
Bamboo hung with tanzaku
Main altar of Kibune Jinja
Visitors from a nearby ryokan
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In Kyoto, Tanabata is usually celebrated on July 7 with ceremonies at shrines and other events around the city, but there are also some in August. One of the most enjoyable is the light-up at Kibune Jinja, which actually runs from the beginning of July right through mid-August. There are also of course ceremonies on the 7th itself if you want the full experience. Good chance to break out the yukata.
Kibune is a fair distance outside the city but the river dining platforms are open and a late meal followed by a stroll and visit to the shrine makes for a memorable evening. Some people make a full day of it by starting at Kurama and walking over the mountain. During the illumination, the shrine is open to 8:00 during the week and 9:00 on the weekend.
The trains run until late so it is also worth going up at night just to catch the numerous fireflies along the road from Kibuneguchi Station. It’s around two kilometers to the shrine and mostly uphill but a pleasant (20 minute) walk after dark. Just be wary of the odd eejit speeding by in a car.
Details
Kibune Jinja (貴船神社) Website and Information on Tanabata light-up
Transportation and access: Take the Keihan Line to Demachiyanagi and transfer to the Eizan Line. Get off at Kibuneguchi, the second to last stop, and either take the bus or walk to Kibune Jinja. (Station names, etc. in Japanese)
Other images and info: Kyoto after dark on Facebook
It sounds like a festival worth seeing. Thanks for the historical context. The Japanese habit of taking something foreign, pizza for example, and making it uniquely japanese, adding mayonnaise, shrimp, and egg, is something I find fascinating. I am pretty sure that Japan is the only place you can find kinako ohagi KitKat bars.
I remember a friend telling me her high school teacher said Japanese are not good at creating new things but they are skilled at taking ideas and improving them. Ideas obviously stick. And, yes, it’s always entertaining reading the seasonal pizza menus that come through my post box: potato and mayo, crab and corn…